A quince is a beautiful fruit. If you walk near a quince tree you’ll probably catch the fragrant scent before you see the fruits hanging from the branches like golden globes.
We have a quince tree near the pond that is particularly prolific this year, which may be because it’s a good year for quince or possibly because Bill no longer has a bonfire next to the tree, which means that this year the branches haven’t been scorched by the flames.
In many cultures the quince is a symbol of fertility and love though it’s not a fruit that you would offer to your true love without cooking it first. The flesh of a raw quince is dry and unpalatable, its skin inedible and the fruit is so hard that if you tried to bite into it, you’d probably break a tooth. But a cooked quince is another matter.
The best time to pick the quince are when the first ones drop to the ground. Although those still on the tree may not quite be ripe, I find it better to pick them and bring them inside to ripen rather than leave them to grow brown and speckled on the tree or rot on the ground.
This week we’ve been eating quince and apple gently cooked to a lumpy puree (is there such a thing? You know what I mean – a puree with texture) with a dollop of yoghurt for breakfast; pots of Quince Chutney sit on the pantry shelf and when I buy some more vinegar I shall make Spiced Quince, using the same recipe (give or take a few ingredients) that I use for Spiced Crab Apples.
Mostly though I’ve been poaching quince. I make a large enough batch that we eat half and the rest is frozen, ready to bring out in the depths of winter. Should you have a quince or two to hand and fancy eating a dish of warm poached quinces, arm yourself with a sharp knife and a stout chopping surface and get to work.
In a large pan, dissolve 200 g of sugar in 1 litre of water and take off the heat. Wipe off the downy fluff from four large or six or so smaller quince and then peel and halve each quince, dropping the fruit into a bowl of water and the peel into your pan of syrup. You can core them but it’s hard work and once they’re cooked, it’s easy to eat around the core. Lay the halved quince on top of the peel, so that they’re covered with syrup and tuck in three bay leaves, a stick of cinnamon and four cloves or you could use star anise or vanilla pod … Bring this to a simmer, put on a close fitting lid and put in the oven at 150C for 1 ½ – 2 hours , prodding them with a knife to see if they’re done. Some days I leave them in the slow oven of the aga for three hours or more so that they turn a deep russet colour.
When they’re cooked to your liking, scoop the quince into a dish and discard the peel.Boil the remaining syrup to reduce and thicken it a little and pour over the quince.
We eat them warm or at room temperature. They’re good with a little cream and a finger of shortbread but they’d go just as well with ice-cream or slice them and eat as an accompaniment to roast pork instead of apple sauce.